From Chiusa to Trento

7 August 2021

Just when you think you’ve started the downhill stretch, and you start to ease off, here comes the heaviest day — one that catches you off guard, it’s so unexpected.

The start

We set off knowing we have to do about ninety kilometers, essentially downhill, and it all seems quite easy. The cycle path from Chiusa to Bolzano isn’t particularly beautiful, but the Isarco river that accompanies it makes the route very pleasant.

Before reaching Bolzano we come across a really lovely initiative: along the cycle path there is a permanent exhibition of works created by an art workshop for people with disabilities (Sheltered Workshop for people with disabilities at Cardano) in collaboration with the Autonomous Province of Bolzano.

Bike-friendly Bolzano

When we arrive in Bolzano it really feels like being in Scandinavia. The cycle paths are an interconnected network with road signs, and the bicycle is a commonly used means of getting around the city. Everything, starting from the outskirts, is extremely well looked after, and it makes a much bigger impression to see a proper city that manages to preserve the same level of care that you find in a small village. Bolzano is a beautiful city, livable and well organized, and Vincenzo and I think: but why do we live the way we live in Rome, when it’s possible to live like this? I know, I’ve said it before, but when it’s a proper city that shows you the difference, it really hits differently.

On the Bolzano cycle path we meet a family out for a stroll. The man is used to doing Mountain Bike championships and regularly takes bike trips. He tells us that, even if we hadn’t considered it (actually we had, but no — I get this one on my own), it’s absolutely worth going for a ride along the cycle path that crosses the vineyards of the Strada del Vino (from Appiano Sulla Strada del Vino to Caldaro Sulla Strada del Vino). We decide that yes, we absolutely have to do it — a trip is also made up of sudden decisions like this. We know we’ll meet some elevation gain but nothing serious. And indeed the route is worth the detour, especially to see Appiano and stop for a while in the delightful main little square.

Not everything goes smoothly

We set off from Appiano and continue along the Strada del Vino. We climb some more, and it’s hot, the air is sticky and a somewhat annoying wind starts to pick up. A bit fatigued and in the middle of a climb, the problems that would stay with us along the road from that point on begin.

First problem: my chain comes off and gets jammed between the largest sprocket and the plastic spoke protector behind the cassette. And that’s it — it won’t come out. The two of us set to it calmly and patiently, but it’s hot, we’re drenched in sweat and we start attracting swarms of insects. One of these, a damned horsefly (to which I am particularly reactive), nails me right in the middle of my struggle to unjam the chain. Finally, tired, sweaty and bitten, we manage to sort the chain and set off again.

The Strada del Vino vineyards are beautiful and stretch as far as the eye can see. The most beautiful point is the top above Caldaro, where, through the vines, you can glimpse Lake Caldaro.

All beautiful, but something is off: we’re going downhill yet we’re straining to pedal because of the headwind — which we won’t shake off ever again. Right up until the end of the day.

We descend towards the lake; the scenery is beautiful but we’re struggling. There’s an unbearable mugginess and a strong headwind — the worst of the worst. At a certain point we get lost; we’re clearly tired and a bit confused, and we look for the road to pick up the Adige cycle path, but without much luck.

Finally, by dint of wandering around in circles, we find the road, but I notice that I’m wobbling. I stop with the intention of inflating the rear wheel, but I had never used this pump I had just bought, and I bang my head against it for quite a while before managing. Yes, I’m getting irritated.

We’ve reached the Adige cycle path, which we were hoping to enjoy a bit more — but with still more than 30 km to go and it being already afternoon, there isn’t much enjoyment to be had. We set off and immediately realize the real problem: we are inexorably into the wind and we’ll stay that way for the next 30 km. No matter how hard we push we can’t go faster than 15/16 km per hour. I’m struggling, really a lot, I feel all the weight of the kilometers of these days, the tiredness of today, and I think about this stage that should have been a no-pressure long stroll, and instead is turning out to be a huge effort with no great value. Vincenzo manages to push harder, but he’s tired too. We don’t talk, we just pedal. All of this feels to us like a great metaphor for something, perhaps for life itself.

At a certain point, having reached the border of the Trento province, we decide it’s time to have some energy gel — we wanted to avoid it but oh well. And the kick arrives: for about half an hour we manage to push back against the wind and to keep going at up to 20 km/h. But the road is long and the bomb effect fades fast.

We’re almost at Trento, but there’s no shortage of one last cruel joke: to continue along the Adige you absolutely have to make a truly absurd detour, and here too the life-metaphors come thick and fast.

Oh well. Pedaling on and on, practically on our knees, we enter the city’s Adige riverside, and then the final comedy: the GPS points us straight at a wall. There’s an underpass! To get to our apartment we should have hoisted up the bike and gone under the railway station. Great nervous, relieved laughter, we sling the bike on our shoulders and off we go — it’s done. 111 km. Life arrives right there: when you underestimate it, it presents you with the bill.

The track

→ Giro_delle_Dolomiti_Day_5_Da_Chiusa_a_Trento.gpx

Comments

Vincenzo. August 8, 2021 at 4:55 pm

Great life-metaphor, yesterday’s ride. Tired but we made it to the end of the day. Trento too is conquered